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AN AMERICAN ACCOUNT OF PARIS : LIVING, EATING, AND TRYING TO SPEAK FRENCH
Showing posts with label Let me count the ways. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Let me count the ways. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

LET ME COUNT THE WAYS...(#2)

1. Beautiful Parisian Women
     While I may not be a HUGE fan of feel the fattest, shortest, and frumpiest I've ever felt in my life, I must say I do love how beautiful some of the women are in this city. It makes me feel like I'm in a movie. How do so many women here have such long legs? Do they all have personal stylists and shoppers too? And where do they get all the damn money for the plethora of snazzy scarves and leather bags they apparently own?




2. Stinky Cheese
     I have always been a big fan of cheeses. The stinkier the better. And if it's soft and spreadable it's love at first sight. And here there are so many different cheese shops that I cannot resist buying some and having a constant supply in my fridge. In fact the other night Elze and I had a dinner based primarily on cheese, bread, foie gras, figs, sour cherry jam, and grilled pineapples. To say it was "french" would be accurate. To say it was sublime would be an understatement. There is a serious drawback to having a round of stinky cheese in your fridge and that's the pungent waft of morning breath aroma that comes every time you open your fridge. (It's also not all that great for your waistline). But the quantity and quality of decadent cheeses is just too irresistible.




3. Wine
     Wine is something I write about often. I have never imbibed so much wine before in my life. But it just seems like the appropriate thing to do considering where I am. And it's also hard to pass it up when even the fairly cheap bottles are tasty. I am, by no means, a wine connoisseur, but I do appreciate a good glass when it meets my lips. All the same, living off of the meager means my internship pays me doesn't allow for much splurging when it comes to vin. And considering how many bottles my friends and I go through we have to be thrifty. So while I have a new found appreciation for the delicious beverage I have even more appreciation for the availability and quality of the cheap wine you can find here.




4. The Metro
     The Paris metro is something I have a deep relationship with. I take it everyday on my way to work and if my day has been especially emotionally exhausting I take it home as well. While it may scare some people, being underground, crowded, rat infested, and with a regular announcement warning you of pick-pockets, I don't find it intimidating at all. It's easy to navigate and for less than 2 € you can travel anywhere in central Paris. And having Metro Card makes me feel like I'm part of a special club.




5. Tiny Shops
     I know I've mentioned this before but I just cannot get over how many teensy weensy little shops there are in this lovely city. Some of them are the size of a tiny bedroom with stuff stacked up up all the walls. They can range from a tiny flower shop, a small antique store, a little vintage clothing store, to a minuscule art shop. And what else I love about these shops is that most of the people that run them are actually charming, friendly french people. They obviously enjoy their lives in their little shops and there's something about these enchanting stores that gives me the sense that the people who own them are doing something they really love.




6. The Homeless People/Performers 
     Now this may seem like an odd thing to enjoy but the homeless people in Paris are extremely interesting. Most of them have mattresses and I see them sleeping on them when I walk to work in the morning. Firstly, I'm always a bit upset that they're still asleep while I'm on my way to my internship in hell. Secondly, I always wonder where they got these mattresses. Thirdly, where do they put them during the day? They also almost all have a daily job they do. They sell homemade ashtrays made from soda cans. They have tin bins rigged inside shopping carts as grills and they'll grill corn on the cob over them or roast chestnuts on top of a lid over the flames. Every day when I get off the metro I can smell chestnuts roasting on an open fire. I know I'm going to love it even more come wintertime. I think another reason I enjoy them is because I walk past the same few guys every day so I've sort of bonded with them. There's the three guys near my metro, one who sells grilled corn on the cob, one who roasts chestnuts, and one who sells ashtrays and always has his little dog with him. The dog is always sleeping on a piece of cardboard and is covered with a blanket.
     There are also a lot of people who perform on the street or in the metro. Most of these people are very talented and I love listening to their music while I wait for my train. These people don't seem to be homeless since they are well dressed, groomed, and can afford quality instruments, microphones, amps, the whole shabang. But they are still some of those people that everyone just walks past without taking notice, when really they are a big part of this city.




7. Croissants
     The croissants here really are the best. I don't know what they do differently but you just cannot get a croissant in the states that is as flakey and melt in your mouth as one in France. They are a French creation so I'm sure that has something to do with it, but almost everywhere you go you find a delicious flaky buttery croissant just waiting for you to enjoy it. I'm going to try as hard as I can to make a decent croissant to sell in my shop, but I think there are somethings you just can't replicate. It's obviously in their genetics, or perhaps the water, but just as they cannot make a burger better than the ones we have, we can't make a croissant better than the ones they have here.




8. Offal
     Offal is something I have always loved but American's squeamishness about innards makes it a difficult thing to find in the states. The French, however, love it. You can find liver, bone marrow, sweatbreads, brains, kidneys, or fromage a tete in most restaurants, brasseries, and cafes. Foie gras? Why, I'd love some! Bread with a side of sausage and fromage a tete? I'm all about it! The other night I ordered some bone marrow and out came three cuts of bone cooked so that the marrow was soft and delicious, served with a bowl of sel gris, some toast, and a tiny spoon and I was in heaven!




9. French Swear Words
     Something about French curse words makes me smile. Sure it may scare me a bit when my chef is yelling, "Merde!" or "Putain!" but they way they express it shows such meaning and feeling I enjoy it. Plus there's something about it that helps me relate to my fellow kitchen staff. I swear in the kitchen all the time and so while I may not understand exactly what he's saying, when Alberique utters a "putain," "merde," or "salope," I can relate to what he's going through.




10. Cobbled Streets
     It may be a bitch to walk on with high heels but cobbled streets add to the charm of Paris. It also reminds me how old this city is. I walk on so many on my walk home and it makes me smile every time.


Saturday, October 8, 2011

LET ME COUNT THE WAYS... (#1)

So since I am constantly ragging on the French and how much they suck, I decided I should make a list of a few of the things I actually like about them. So here are ten things that are totally awesome about France and French people.

1. Old men playing pétanque in the park. 
     There is a group of old men who get together every afternoon and play pétanque in a park I pass on my way home from work. They all have impressive beer bellies (though they're probably more like wine bellies) and they take their game very seriously. I've seen them get into numerous light hearted arguments about the game. They're just so darn cute and I am going to have to take a picture of them if I ever remember to take my camera out of the house.




2. Their love of animals
    Something interesting about the French that I never knew before was that they love animals. So many of the people here in Paris have dogs and everyone seems to enjoy them. They're even allowed into restaurants. It isn't an official "ok" but apparently other patrons and the owners look the other way if someone brings their dog into a restaurant or cafe. I've even seen people sitting across their table from their own dogs, the dog sitting in its chair and acting like a perfect guest. In one place in Lyon there was even a cat that lived in the restaurant. I miss my own animals so much that I was more than excited about this beautiful young cat wandering between the tables. I chummed it with some of my saucisson and he came and sat on my lap and happily shared my meal with me. This fact about the French honestly makes me think about moving here because then I could have my cat and dog at work with me every day.




3. The bread
     It's no secret that the French love bread or that they make damn good bread. What I didn't know before coming here, though, was that they take it so seriously that there is actually a law which states that not all the bakeries in a village, town, or city, can be closed on the same day. At least one place has to be open so that the people can go and get fresh bread for the day. Every day I pass numerous Parisians with their baguettes under their arms, or sticking out of a bag on the back of their scooters. There are just about as many bakeries here as there are Starbucks in America. I have yet to find one nearby that will become my standard but so far all of them are pretty darn good.




4. The children
     While I may not be a huge fan of the french language at work I do find it wonderful to listen to outside of the kitchen, especially when little kids are speaking it. They must be so darn smart to know how to speak this crazy foreign language! They sound very cute and it doesn't hurt that they are often dressed up in adorable french outfits.




5. Men in pink
    Real men wear pink and while I find a lot of French men to be a bit frail and sissy for me, I do love that so many of them wear pink. I saw at least three gorgeous French men wearing the wonderful color today. One of them even had pink pants on, another a pink bow tie.




6. The buildings
     Being an American I'm not very used to all this beautiful old architecture. Everything here is historic and bewitching which makes every day a bit brighter just because the atmosphere is so pleasant.




7. Outside seating
    Pretty much every place here has somewhere outside to sit. The cafes and brasseries will even put just a line of chairs along the side of their building on the sidewalk with tiny tables in front of them if there isn't room for actual seating all around a table. This could be partially because of how many people in France smoke, but I think it's also just one of those things that they do here and that everyone expects and enjoys.



8. The drivers
     I may be the only one who feels this way but I absolutely love how French people drive. There's no fussing about they just get in the car and go go go! They drive fast, they honk regularly, and they only use the fast lane on highways for passing.




9. Passionfruit 
     Passionfruit is one of my favorite fruits. I absolutely love how it tastes and I will order anything if it has passionfruit in it. It's not something you find all that much in the states. But here they seem to love it just as much as I do. Most ice cream places have passionfruit sorbet. Almost every pastry shop has something with passionfruit in it. You can find juice with passionfruit in it in every grocery store. I am definitely going to bring back this mindset when I come back to the states and plan on working on a lot of passionfruit recipes.




10. Tonka bean
     I had never heard of tonka bean, let alone tasted it, before I came to France. It is, however, my favorite flavor. It is reminiscent of vanilla but so much better than that. The beans look like weird shriveled black almonds and you grate them like you would a nutmeg. The smell is incredible. They are, for whatever reason, illegal in the United States. I don't know what the FDA has against them but apparently they decided that since eating five pounds of straight tonka beans could kill you somewhere down the road they aren't allowed in food. But here in France where they have much more strict rules on food colorings and preservatives, they have tonka all over the place. At my patisserie they make a tonka rice pudding and I have fallen madly in love with it. For all of you lawbreakers out there, you can actually find it in the states because it's used in voodoo and perfumes and so if you'd like to test it out in the safety of your own home you can. I am taking on a personal mission of discovering a way to mimic tonka bean within my own pastry shop because it really is just that darn good.



to be continued...